I Do Love Tetouan …

by Roqaya El Guiri

If I had to describe why I love Tetouan in one word, it would be “overwhelming” … But I mean that in a positive way. I first moved to Tetouan in 2018 to work for Green Olive Arts as a Residency Assistant. There, I was introduced to the arts in all shapes and forms, and there I met some very interesting artists … some of whom are now my best friends! My job quickly became sharing my love of Tetouan.

The city of Tetouan is wonderfully vibrant. In spite of the mountain of whitewashed walls that dominate the city, once you step foot in the old medina (the old walled city) you’ll notice right away that it’s really quite colorful. It surprises visitors that the medina is actually filled with deliciously interesting aromas and lots of commotion. Even though I’m a Moroccan and have lived my whole life in Morocco, I was exposed to new sights and a whole different way of life in this city. I found the true beauty of Tetouan once I gave myself time to get used to it and process what I was experiencing at that time. And since then my favorite pastime activity is wandering the narrow streets of the medina.

Love the Labyrinth of People

When I started walking around in the old medina of Tetouan for the first time, I got quite confused and … lost … even though it is considered “small” compared to the vast labyrinths of Fes or Marrakech. This was probably because my direction skills are poor. As I made my way through the narrow winding maze-like alleys, I got frustrated with my inability to find my way out. I was especially upset because I had just started a job that required me to take new guest artists into the medina to get art supplies, interact with artisans or even buy a rug. I was supposed to be able to navigate this place to help others … and not get lost in it!

As I walked around in the medina for several days, I tried to memorize street names and landmarks, hoping I would remember the next time I walk in those places again. I actually made a few friends among artisans, produce sellers and others by just repeating my route everyday. I found out that they love Tetouan too!

The street that most captured my heart was Trankat Street, where people go to find all kinds of kitchen wares and other odd items. Some locals even call it “Google” because you never know what treasures you might come across there. Finding hidden places like this where you could find what you are looking for was really fun. But I most loved the fact that I had become familiar to people I did not know just days ago.

Love Tetouan Flavors

I ended up discovering beautiful restaurants and riads (old homes with central gardens, many of which are converted to B&B hotels). At these riads you can enjoy a meal or just a drink with a wonderful view of the Kasbah (or the K’shla, as Tetouanis know it, meaning “military base”). While there are luxurious food restaurants in some of these, there are also some “hole-in-the-wall” ones too. You know the ones where most of the time the chef is also the waiter? These are my favorites, to be honest, because of their affordable prices and delicious food! So if you happen to visit Tetouan, do not miss Ali Baba’s restaurant for an amazing kefta tajine or even a tasty chicken sandwich.

My other favorite thing to do in Tetouan is hanging out in one of the medina’s traditional cafes for a glass of Moroccan mint tea or a bowl of bisar. Tetouan is known for this locally famous “comfort” soup made from fava beans and/or split peas with olive oil, garlic and cumin. Unlike other cities in Morocco where Moroccan mint tea is usually served in a metal teapot, in Tetouan (and in the north of Morocco in general) they serve it in a tall glass with some fresh mint stuffed in the top.

 In all these places I was happy to find how easy it was to get into random conversations with “strangers.” I continue to be amazed at the way people in Tetouan are friendly and willing to talk to a total stranger like me.

Love the Arts of Tetouan

There are several schools in Tetouan that are keeping traditional arts alive. The city is known for its Royal Artisan School (Dar S’naa) for children wanting to learn traditional Andalusian craftsmanship and also the National Institute of Fine Arts (the only one in the country!). If you are an art-lover like me, Tetouan is, without a doubt, the city you must visit. While you can enjoy the works of modern and contemporary artists at the Modern Art Museum, the Archeological Museum, on the other hand, introduces you to the treasures of Morocco’s long fascinating pre-historic and the pre-Islamic story.

I like the fact that Tetouan still embodies the feel of its past in its architecture, arts and hospitality, and is still not as overrun by tourists as Morocco’s other big cities. If you get to spend some time here someday, or already have, you will probably agree with me.  The city of Tetouan has a way of overwhelming you … that makes you want more.